Impressions Hair Salon - 7170 W. 44th Ave, Wheatridge Colorado
 

 

Why do we have hair?

Hair serves a number of functions for each individual. A few of the functions are listed below.

" It protects the head from the weather and the sun.
" It provides color around the face. (no matter what shade of hair you have)
" It radiates body heat
" It can give uniqueness to an individual by the style they choose to wear.

Because these things are unique to each individual you have to find what works for you and use those techniques to accent your best features. Remember: you should have a good schedule for hair maintenance and adjust it as the season change.

What is hair?

The hair on your head grows continuously and can reach to great lengths.
Hair is a Biological polymer, most of its dry weight is made up of proteins called Keratin's. Different parts of the hair have different cysteine levels, leading to softer or harder hair. Hair is dead tissue and is composed of Keratin and related proteins; it is formed by rapid divisions of cells at the base of the follicle, the cells are pushed upward from the follicle base, they harden and begin pigmentation.

Hair has an inner cortex and outer sheath called a cuticle. The cuticle is responsible for much of the mechanical strength of the hair. Hair has about 6 to 8 levels of cuticle. The cuticle is the protective part of the hair, if the cuticle is in good shape (normal) then the have has good porosity and functions well. If the cuticle has been damaged then it has less ability to protect the hair and maintain good porosity. You can damaged the cuticle in several ways, the most common is when you over process hair with chemicals.
Hair response to its environment and its history, both chemical and mechanical (the chemical history is anything you've done that is not naturally apart of your hair, i.e. perm, color, straightening. The mechanical is what you do to it during your styling time.)

Hair grows roughly ½ inch a month, so on average about 6 inches a year. Long scalp hair stays on the head an average of 3 to 5 years. Most people have anywhere from 100,000 to 150,000 strands of hair on their heads.

What is color?

Color is produced from melanin found in our bodies. There are 2 kinds of melanin in hair: Phaeomelanin (responsible for yellowish - blond, ginger and red colors.), Eumelanin ( the most common and responsible for hair shades from brown to black.)

* No melanin (pigment) produces white/gray hair. As you age your body has less and less melanin in your body.

In the coloring process- colorists must open the cuticle or outer layer of the hair to deposit color in to the hair shaft. The formula of the color then works with the cortex ( inner part of the hair) to deposit (add) or remove (lighten) the color if your hair.

History of color

Hair color has been used in some way or other since ancient Greece. They used soaps and bleaches to lighten or redden hair. It was a sign of courage. The Romans used dyes made of walnuts that were boiled to produce dye or color of dark shades.

Today color is hot, sexy, trendy and fresh. You can do almost anything with your hair. In the 1950's less than 10% of American women colored their hair. When they did color it was their natural color, and they absolutely didn't want anyone to know they had to use color. Today, blonde and red are the two most popular colors requested in beauty salons, and it isn't just women who now use color, men are joining the ranks with home hair-color sales at $113.5 million last year, it was about $56.1 million just five years ago. That is a 50% increase.

  • When should you see a professional hair stylist?
  • When is a home color job o.k. ?
  • What color should I choose and why?
  • What if it doesn't turn out or is really a mess?

It's not as bad as it seems, you can learn the how, when, and why about color.

Finding a good colorist

The best way is almost always recommendations. Use family and friends whose hair you like or admire and see where they go for their services. When you do go to a salon, don't be afraid to ask questions- the more you ask, the more you know. You can also get a feel for what or how much the stylist knows about color or the service that you need.
Don't let a stylist be blasé or brush aside your questions and still try to do a color on you, have all your questions answered by the stylist before the process begins. Try to have a list of your most important questions written down, this will help you not get lost on the conversation.


What is in hair color?

Hair color was made of natural and herbal dyes until the early 1900's when a French chemist named Eugene Schuller made the first safe commercial color in 1909. He used a new chemical called Paraphenylenediamine. This creation was the beginning of his company The French Harmless Hair Die Company, which became known as L'Oreal, one of the biggest hair product companies in the world. They make everything from shampoos, conditioners, color, curling irons, blow dryers, hair treatments and makeup. The company is always developing new products and doing research to enhance their products all across the globe.

Ingredients in hair color today

  1. Hydrogen Peroxide (developer or oxidizing agent) this comes in several different strengths, it helps open the hair and allows for longer lasting color. We generally use 30% volume or less. The larger the volume of developer, the more we remove Sulfur from the hair, causing the hair to lighten in color and the hair hardens and loses weight.
    If you are a current hair color client and you wonder why your hair becomes flat and lifeless, after you have had your color a while, it is because your ends are lightweight and your scalp hair (new growth) is not. It is still heavier because it has all its own weight and pigment, because it has not been colored or lightened.
  2. Ammonia - This allows for lighting, when the permanent hair color is mixed with the peroxide(developer) then ammonia is the catalyst (helping agent) that makes the product work like it should. Ammonia is alkaline and opens or separates the cuticle so that the color can penetrate the inside of the hair.

What affects hair color?

The biggest factor in hair color change is our genes, and their effect on the amount of melanin produced, if your family has a history of graying early then you may also. The environment can also change hair. When I say environment I am talking about both chemical and physical things that you do to the hair. (ex. Perm, color, bleaching, illness, medicines, chemotherapy treatments and what is always happening within the body)
Melanin amounts in the hair can be changed by exposure to acids and alkalis. Acids darken hair and alkali, lighten hair. Both acid and alkali are found in water and shampoo.
Sunlight can change the melanin in hair, UV rays from the sun can lighten hair from dark brown to light or medium brown. A blonde person hair can change to white shades with excessive/continuous sun exposure.

Chemicals and hair color

The most common chemical that I see that affects hair color is Chlorine. A blonde hair person can change their hair to a yucky green color with to much exposure to chlorine. Another chemicals that I see affect hair is nicotine, people who smoke have been associated with premature graying. The toxins in tobacco block pigment production activities. The tar in tobacco can adhere or react to the hair. The only reasonable treatment is to avoid exposure to these chemicals.

Chemotherapy treatment for cancer is a common drug that can cause color to change. Darker hair colors seem to hold the chemicals inside the hair, lighter colored hair holds less of the chemicals. Some drugs change the ay Melanin is received into the hair.

A lot of the time we have things that happens inside our bodies or through environmental or chemical process that change the amount of light that is reflected through our hair. In summer with sun exposure you see more light in the hair, it has a lighter look-less exposure in winter will give a darker appearance to the hair.

Age and Gray hair

The age at which people gray varies from person to person, People generate start graying in their late 20's. The U.S. and Europe combined show that 50% of the population have gray hair by age 50.

The most common areas to see gray are at the temples and above the ears. Gray hair is caused by a reduction of melanin in the hair over time. Blondes are more likely to have a full head of white hair as they age because their hair has a lower density of pigment to begin with.

Graying hair has a lot to do with genetics but there is very little research in this area, but look within your family unit for patterns of graying this will give you some idea of what to expect has you age.

If you are concerned about the condition of your hair, weather it is graying issues, thinning, or changes in texture, a good place to start is a checkup with your doctor. They can ease your mind about internal factors that may be contributing to your concerns.

Oily hair

Highlight hair, it can make it more porous and can accept more oil, this allows for less shampooing and the hair looks great.
Oily hair clients need to use lukewarm water when they shampoo. The oil glands on the head already produce excess oil and using water that is to hot will stimulate the oil glands in the scalp and increase greasiness. If you are in between shampoo's and need to freshen up oily hair then sprinkle some Talcum powder, or baby powder, on the hair and leave it for a few seconds. Then use your hands to work it through your hair to get a fresh look.


Going back to your natural hair color

When going back to your natural hair color, Don not use products with ammonia in them. You should always use a color that is a little lighter than your natural color because you can always go darker, but it is much harder to re-lighten hair. Blondes can't return to brown hair or darker quickly, you need to do it in 2 steps.

Use a color filler of a lighter shade (medium blonde with a red tint) than you actual chose to put on the hair. Process 30 minutes, then rinse, shampoo, and dry the hair. Follow with actual color, apply color process 30 minutes, rinse, shampoo and style.

Please do not leave your new growth hair without color, so that you have 2 to more inches of new growth showing and the rest of your hair is a different color. Doing this is really not good for your hair and it does little for your appearance. A colorist can mix an appropriate color and use a highlighting technique to get you back to your natural color. It will not be obvious.

Remember that there are a lot of different types of color products. Demi-permanent, semi-permanent, permanent, and temporary rinses are just some examples. There are also colored waxes and styling aids that you can use to achieve this look.

Maintaining your color

Do not color the ends of your hair every time you do your new growth. If you do, it creates hair ends that are extremely porous and can cause hair to fade even faster. It is a better idea to color scalp hair new growth every time - do a non ammonia color on the ends only if they have faded, and only for a short time.

Hair product ingredients

You can't tell much about a product by the list of ingredients. The only true test of a product is to try it on your self. The goods thing about an ingredient label is that you can ascertain if there is anything that you are allergic too, and not purchase the item. The FDA requires companies to print labels and ingredients on all products, but there is not enough info on a label to tell you if it will work on you or not.

Alcohol in products

There is alcohol in a lot of products. Isopropyl alcohol is found in hairsprays to aide in the evaporation of the product, and to keep it fluid in the bottle. Then alcohol evaporates very quickly and is not on the hair long enough to cause damage. Cetyl and Stearyl alcohol are the most common alcohol used and they help to keep the hair soft and manageable.


Home color tips

Skin stain from color, use vaseline around hair line to help keep outer hair skin free from color. If you get it on the skin anyway, then you can use a baby wipe to rub lightly on the skin to remove the color. You can also use a product called color remover, it is a liquid (usually light white in a see through bottle) that can be applied to a clean cloth and rubbed on skin to remove color stain.

I also recommend that clients not color or really do any chemical treatments to their hair at least during the first trimester of pregnancy, some clients should not color at all during pregnancy. There is no concrete evidence that the coloring process is medically harmful. A lot of professionals differ in their opinions, but they generally agree that you should do what makes you feel most comfortable during your pregnancy. You should check with your doctor if you have any health concerns.

Your hair is affected by you pregnancy, because of the changes in the body - but this can continue even up to a year after the birth, it can affect hair growth, texture, loss of hair, shine, condition and the amount of curl.

Problem solving

Chlorine can strip color and make your hair more difficult to color. If your home water has a lot of chlorine you might want to consider adding a filter. If you swim in pools (they usually have a lot of chlorine to keep the water clean and free from bacteria), it is hard on the hair. Chlorine creates a buildup on film on the hair and doesn't allow the color or other chemicals to penetrate the hair - so it is a good idea to use a stronger shampoo, like swimmer shampoo or really good clarifying shampoo. Not a daily shampoo, they are not strong enough to remove the chlorine and buildup.

Apply clarifying shampoo, leave on hair 3 to 5 minutes, then rinse with the hottest water you can handle. Shampoo a second time leave on 3 to 5 minutes, rinse and follow with a good moisturizing conditioner.

Where to start?

There are a lot of brands and types of hair extensions on the market. Our salon provides 2 types - individual strands, and wefts.

Hair comes in many qualities - the qualities of the hair is a big piece of that determines how real the hair extensions look and how long they last.

The comments that follow about hair quality are to be used as a guide. If you need exact or more detailed information, consult your stylist.

Synthetic Hair

Synthetic hair is plastic and does not look real - it does not look like you natural hair. If you are doing anything other than braids, I would stay away from synthetic hair.

Asian Hair (Bad)

This hair is naturally dark and straight. It gives a sleek, dark look, and you can use this only if your hair is straight and you don't color it.

European Hair (OK)

It is not really European hair. However, it is the best of the Asian hair. It does not last very long.

European Hair (Good)

This hair is what most people use for extensions. It is strong and looks great. This hair can last up to a year if you care for it properly. The hair comes from Italy and Spain. It looks very dark. It cam be straight or wavy.

The hair starts out dark and is then stripped to different levels and then colored to the different shades that are available. The hair is colored usually with fabric dye not color.

Virgin Hair (Best)

This hair is really good and usually very expensive. Families from Russia and Poland have grown their hair out for generations, specifically to be cut and sold. The hair is never colored or treated. It is the exact color that the individual had when it was cut. Virgin hair can last for several years.

Wefts

A weft is hair that is attached together with string at the top and loose at the bottom, it is a straight line of hair. Wefts can be handmade or machine made. Handmade wefts are made to fit your head. Machine wefts are a continuous width and we cut it to fit.

Your choice comes down to what can you afford and the quality of hair. If you want your hair to last longer and look as real as possible then go for the best.

How are wefts attached?

Your stylist will attach the weft to a tiny braid that is made from your own hair. The braid goes across the head horizontally and run in between sections of your own hair so they can not be seen. You use the number and size of tracks (braids) that will match your hair the best if it were to have grown out.

Care of wefts

Treat it like your own hair. If you have not had long hair before or you aren't used to having long hair, follow the tips below.

Tips:

  1. Wash and condition your hair on a regular schedule. The extensions are not going to receive your scalps natural oils, so you need to moisturize regularly. Without moisture, your extensions will become brittle and break. Nexus Keraphix works great as a moisturizer for extensions.
  2. Be gentle and take care of your extension. Don't pull, yank, or brush to hard. Don't over use your blow dryer. Use a diffuser.
  3. Brush out your hair, especially knots before you wash your hair, swim, or sleep. Start at the nape of the neck and move up the scalp, using a good paddle brush and not pulling on the extensions.
  4. Make sure you clean all of your hair even in between braids and all the scalp. This keeps the scalp and hair full from bacteria.

How long can they be?

Hair comes in lengths up to 30" long. The longer the hair length, the longer it takes for a person to grow it out so the quality isn't as great. Also, the longer you get the hair, the more damage you may have to your own hair because your hair is not use to the extra weight and the pressure may not be good for your scalp. Remember: your hair normally grows out over a period of time and when you add lengths over night your head is not use to the added difference. The best and most popular length is 18". This is about bra length on average women.

Cost of Wefts

It varies from stylist to stylist. Ask a lot of questions. Remember that once it is in you have some up keep costs, so that needs to be budgeted in to your hair cost. Each weft usually cost somewhere between $20 to $60 every 6-8 weeks. Don't expect fabulous hair if you can't afford it. You have to be willing to able to pay for top quality hair, but your hair will look great. It will last and be wonderful.

How can I wear my hair?

The hair should be applied in the interior of your head. Not any lower than the base of your head and should be kept in between the ears, so that there is hair on the outer parameter of the head that is used to cover the wefts when you wear it up.

How do I find a good stylist for extensions?

  • Read - articles and search the web
  • Research - ask to see photos (before and after of clients)
  • Gut instinct - talk to other clients

People can and do lie about their skills. Go into a salon informed with a list of information and ask questions. If you know more than the stylist or if this stylist doesn't want to spend enough time with you to make you comfortable, then you probably don't want them to be that way while working on your hair.

Will it pull out my hair or damage it?

No - if it hurts at all get them out right away. The tracks (braids) should be comfortable, but not hurt you. The tension on the braids should be even all over your head. You should feel the wefts for the first day or two, but after that your head and hair should relax and you should not feel them.

Can I color my hair while wearing wefts?

Yes - Although, I would have your stylist do the coloring because you only have to color the hair between the extensions and the crown of the head.